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The Heian Period: Poems, Perfume and the Fujiwara Show

Layered-kimono courtiers composing poems while one nobleman anxiously searches for rhymes
Heian court life: nine layers of silk and one deadline for a poem.

Quick version

In 794 Emperor Kanmu moved the capital to Heian-kyō, today’s Kyoto, partly to escape the powerful Buddhist temples of Nara. The city would stay the imperial capital for over a thousand years.

The Fujiwara take charge

The Fujiwara clan’s trick was marriage. They married their daughters to emperors, then governed as the baby emperor’s grandfather. They held two special posts: sesshō (regent for a child emperor) and kanpaku (regent for an adult one). Their power peaked with Fujiwara no Michinaga (966–1028), who is said to have compared himself to the full moon with nothing missing.

Japanese culture finds its voice

With official missions to Tang China ended in 894, the court developed its own style, known as kokufū bunka:

Warriors on the rise

Outside the capital, estates (shōen) multiplied and landholders armed themselves. These warriors (bushi) later became the samurai. The Taira and Minamoto clans rose; Taira no Kiyomori became chief minister in 1167, but the Minamoto defeated the Taira at Dan-no-ura in 1185, opening the way for the first samurai government in Kamakura.

See it today

Festival connection

Kyoto’s Gion Matsuri began in 869 as a ritual to calm an epidemic, a very Heian way of dealing with bad luck, and its towering floats parade every July. The Aoi Matsuri in May sends a procession of courtiers in Heian costume through the city. For a whole sweep of history in one parade, see the Jidai Matsuri on 22 October, whose procession ends in the Heian period at Heian Shrine.

A lady-in-waiting writing a long scroll at midnight by lamplight
Murasaki Shikibu working on The Tale of Genji. Possibly the world's first novel.