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Edo Life: Fires, Sumo, Kabuki and the Birth of Fast Food

Edo firefighters with big banners rushing through a street while a family flees with a giant bundle
'Fires and fights are the flowers of Edo.' Not everybody liked the flowers.

Quick version

Edo was crowded, noisy and endlessly entertaining. Most people lived in nagaya, long wooden tenements with thin walls and a shared well and toilet. The mix of wood, paper and tight spaces meant fire was a constant danger. The Great Meireki Fire of 1657 destroyed a large part of the city. A saying went: “Fires and fights are the flowers of Edo.”

Entertainment

Edo food

Edo cooks created quick, cheap meals for a city on the move. Soba noodles, tempura and sushi were sold from stalls. Edo-style sushi (nigiri) became popular in the early 1800s, typically pressed by hand and eaten as a snack. It was fast food, not fine dining.

Townspeople culture

The merchant class, officially low in rank, spent money on theatre, fashion and festivals. The result is the lively chōnin (townspeople) culture, still visible in Tokyo’s old districts.

See it today

Festival connection

Edo traditions live on at Kanda Matsuri, Sanja Matsuri and the Sumida River Fireworks (whose origins go back to 1733). Near Sensō-ji, try the Hōzuki Market in July and the Hagoita Market in December, or the Tori-no-ichi fairs in November.

A sushi stall owner handing a huge hand-pressed sushi to a happy samurai
Edo-era sushi: bigger, quicker, and eaten standing up.